The Celtic Weave Stitch
Hello Readers!
I want to introduce you to one of my favourite textured stitches - The Celtic Weave! This darling stitch is worked using the back/front post method. This means you work around the post of the stitches instead of into the top of them. It’s designed to mimic the style of Celtic knot work. This textured stitch gives the appearance of many woven strands, but it is actually crocheted in rows! It works well in the round or flat, but each is worked differently so I will be going over both.
Seen predominantly in early Christian manuscripts, Celtic knot work actually stems from interlaced designs from the late Roman empire. Many places in Europe have their own form of interlaced art due to the wide spread of the Roman Empire. By approximately the 7th century, Celtic knot work had developed into what we recognise today. It is mainly known for the unbroken, or never ending designs. British archaeologist, J. Romilly Allen, has identified “eight elementary knots which form the basis of nearly all the interlaced patterns in Celtic decorative art”. 1 This is what gives the Celtic style of knot work its uniformity and its recognisable design.
Row 1: Chain 18, double crochet in the 3rd stitch from the hook, double crochet to the end (15 more), chain 2 and turn.
Here is where we start the patterned stitches using treble crochet, and it involves working around the posts of the double crochets we just made. Treble crochet is one taller than a double crochet, so to begin you simply wrap the yarn an extra time at the start of the stitch, then work as you would for a double crochet.
Because we want the texture all on one side we need to alternate between front and back post stitches; this row will be back post. When you are looking at your work, after turning it, your hook will go behind the work and weave in front of the stitch you are working and back out the back. That is where you will draw your loop through to attach to the previous row, instead of the top of the stitch like usually. We are also going to be skipping stitches and then going back to work them after, this is what crosses the strands. Pay close attention to the stitch number in the instructions and the photos.
Row 2: [Back post treble crochet( or: tbc) in the 3rd stitch, back post tbc in 4th stitch, back post tbc in 1st stitch, back post tbc in 2nd stitch], repeat [ ] starting in the next unworked stitch to the end, double crochet into starting chains, chain 2 and turn. (you should have 4 crosses)
The final double crochet is required to anchor the last cross so the next row will have more structure. Up to now all our back post treble crochets have been diagonal, but to start this row we want our ‘strands’ to feed back into our weave pattern. To do that the first two trebles will be vertical and we will see how they feed back in the row after.
This is also the main difference between working this in the round or flat. The treble crochets in this row will be worked around the front the previous trebles we just made, but those should now be facing you on the ‘right’ side. This side is easier to work because you can see what you’re doing, but it is still tricky to master because some of the stitches you’ll be working will be hidden by our criss-crosses. So take your time and make sure you’re working the correct stitch. For the back side, feel free to turn the work so you can find your stitch, just remember to turn back and continue in the right direction.
Row 3: Front post treble crochet in 1st stitch, front post tbc in 2nd stitch, skip 2 and work front post tbc in 5th stitch, front post tbc in 6th stitch, fptbc in 3rd stitch, fp tbc in 4th stitch, [starting from 1st unworked stitch skip 2, fp tbc in 3rd stitch, fp tbc in 4th stitch, fp tbc in 1st stitch, fp tbc in 2nd stitch], repeat [ ], double crochet in starting chains, ch 2 turn.
Row 4, 5, 6, 7……. Repeat row 3 alternating between front post and back post treble crochet so the weave is always on the same side of the piece.
Row 1: Chain 16, slip stitch to join in a ring, chain 2 and turn, double crochet around (15), slip stitch to join to 2nd starting ch, ch 2 and turn.
Row 2: [Skip 2 stitches, front post tbc in 3rd stitch, fp tbc in 4th stitch, fp tbc in 1st stitch, fp tbc in 2nd stitch] starting from next unworked stitch repeat [ ] around, slip stitch into starting chain, chain 2 and turn.
Row 3: Skip 4 stitches, back post tbc in 5th stitch, back post tbc in 6th stitch, bp tbc in 3rd stitch, bp tbc in 4th stitch, [starting from next unworked stitch skip 2, bp tbc in 3rd stitch, bp tbc in 4th stitch, bp tbc in 1st stitch, bp tbc in 2nd stitch] repeat [ ], when you get back around to your seam you will notice there are 2 unworked stitches on both sides of the seam, so starting on the 1st and 2nd stitches of the previous row work back post treble crochet, then work into the final 2 stitches of the previous row back post tbc, slip stitch into the starting chain, chain 2 and turn.
Continue working Row 3 to continue the pattern, alternating front and back post treble crochets so the texture remains on the outside of the piece. This method hides your seam under the criss-crosses making it perfect for a hat, headband or infinity scarf.
To finish both methods simply work a row of double crochet normally into the tops of the stitches and the ‘strands’ will blend back in as they do at the start.
I want to introduce you to one of my favourite textured stitches - The Celtic Weave! This darling stitch is worked using the back/front post method. This means you work around the post of the stitches instead of into the top of them. It’s designed to mimic the style of Celtic knot work. This textured stitch gives the appearance of many woven strands, but it is actually crocheted in rows! It works well in the round or flat, but each is worked differently so I will be going over both.
Seen predominantly in early Christian manuscripts, Celtic knot work actually stems from interlaced designs from the late Roman empire. Many places in Europe have their own form of interlaced art due to the wide spread of the Roman Empire. By approximately the 7th century, Celtic knot work had developed into what we recognise today. It is mainly known for the unbroken, or never ending designs. British archaeologist, J. Romilly Allen, has identified “eight elementary knots which form the basis of nearly all the interlaced patterns in Celtic decorative art”. 1 This is what gives the Celtic style of knot work its uniformity and its recognisable design.
FLAT:
First we need a base to work into. The starting row needs to be a multiple of 4 plus 1 for the turning chains. I’ll be using 16+1 as an example for these instructions so you can crochet along.
Row 1: Chain 18, double crochet in the 3rd stitch from the hook, double crochet to the end (15 more), chain 2 and turn.
Here is where we start the patterned stitches using treble crochet, and it involves working around the posts of the double crochets we just made. Treble crochet is one taller than a double crochet, so to begin you simply wrap the yarn an extra time at the start of the stitch, then work as you would for a double crochet.
Because we want the texture all on one side we need to alternate between front and back post stitches; this row will be back post. When you are looking at your work, after turning it, your hook will go behind the work and weave in front of the stitch you are working and back out the back. That is where you will draw your loop through to attach to the previous row, instead of the top of the stitch like usually. We are also going to be skipping stitches and then going back to work them after, this is what crosses the strands. Pay close attention to the stitch number in the instructions and the photos.
Row 2: [Back post treble crochet( or: tbc) in the 3rd stitch, back post tbc in 4th stitch, back post tbc in 1st stitch, back post tbc in 2nd stitch], repeat [ ] starting in the next unworked stitch to the end, double crochet into starting chains, chain 2 and turn. (you should have 4 crosses)
The final double crochet is required to anchor the last cross so the next row will have more structure. Up to now all our back post treble crochets have been diagonal, but to start this row we want our ‘strands’ to feed back into our weave pattern. To do that the first two trebles will be vertical and we will see how they feed back in the row after.
This is also the main difference between working this in the round or flat. The treble crochets in this row will be worked around the front the previous trebles we just made, but those should now be facing you on the ‘right’ side. This side is easier to work because you can see what you’re doing, but it is still tricky to master because some of the stitches you’ll be working will be hidden by our criss-crosses. So take your time and make sure you’re working the correct stitch. For the back side, feel free to turn the work so you can find your stitch, just remember to turn back and continue in the right direction.
Row 3: Front post treble crochet in 1st stitch, front post tbc in 2nd stitch, skip 2 and work front post tbc in 5th stitch, front post tbc in 6th stitch, fptbc in 3rd stitch, fp tbc in 4th stitch, [starting from 1st unworked stitch skip 2, fp tbc in 3rd stitch, fp tbc in 4th stitch, fp tbc in 1st stitch, fp tbc in 2nd stitch], repeat [ ], double crochet in starting chains, ch 2 turn. |
| The pattern becomes more apparent the father you go! |
ROUND:
Working this stitch in the round is very similar, but instead of the vertical treble crochet at the end of the row, we simply hop the seam. This pattern requires it be worked in rows, but we don't have to emphasise the seam, we can hide it!
Row 1: Chain 16, slip stitch to join in a ring, chain 2 and turn, double crochet around (15), slip stitch to join to 2nd starting ch, ch 2 and turn.
To finish both methods simply work a row of double crochet normally into the tops of the stitches and the ‘strands’ will blend back in as they do at the start.
This Celtic weave may not be unending, but whether worked flat or in the round, it will always feed back into itself. It’s a tricky stitch to get the hang of at first, but once you master it, all of your works can have the illuminated, revered look of an ancient manuscript or carving! I hope you all enjoy trying out this style, leave a comment below if you do and let me know how it goes!
Until next time,
I’m Kat and that’s that!
Until next time,
I’m Kat and that’s that!
1 J.Romilly Allen (1933). Celtic Art in Pagan and Christian Times Studio Editions LTD
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